The end: Rishikesh

My last few days in McLeod Ganj where literally freezing. Got a good taste of what the Himalayas are like in winter. And they are beautiful and full of wonder. But too cold for me!

I did a bit of volunteering picking up garbage with the great Waste Warriors. A bit of a never ending task in this country where rubbish bins simply don't exist. Even if you find one you know that it'll finally be emptied right on the street.

During this insightful activity I met my new friends Sid and Oscar. We shared the only pot luck dinner I enjoyed in India. A great dinner cooked in the fire, under the rain. Next day we woke up surrounded by snow! Great walks and conversations and sweet masala chai!

I left the heights looking for a bit of warmth and more yoga. Destination Rishikesh, where even the guy that owns the grocery shop will tell you he is a yoga teacher. The walls are full of information on courses, ayurvedic treatments, workshops to wake up your Kundalini. In the tourist cafes (plenty of those around), every third word is the name of a yoga pose.

For a while I had a beautiful daily schedule. I would wake up real early and go for a good walk by the Ganges towards my morning yoga class.

Then walk back, bask in the sun if available, do some reading, have some lunch. And then again walking across the bridges full of monkeys, the streets full of cows and sadhus.

One afternoon yoga class and then back through the peaceful darkness. A delicious Paneer Dosa and early bed.

My neighborhood was a bit distant from the main activities. But I loved those walks to and fro, and waking up to the bells of the temples that surrounded me. Temples full of monkeys. More learning about them, eg: If you leave the door open while hanging your clothing, when you come back there might be a monkey in your room stealing the bananas.

Different kinds of yoga around.
Some extremely athletic Ashtanga in the morning. Jumping around, ending up with the toes on the head.
Some peaceful Hatha, deepening detailes extensions.
Some strict Iyengar with the great Usha Devi yelling with the germanic accent.
Some meditative and restoring Sivananda with the beautiful Japanese lady.
So much to learn and discover.

But also time for some sightseeing with the great Ceci and Anuska. Climbing high temples to get a view of the Himalayas. Or climbing by the river by never ending clear waterfalls that comb the thick bush hiding paradise valleys.

And also a bit of suffering. The one and only sickness in a whole year of travelling. Lying in my cold hard bed for 4 days with no way to heat up water and no shower but some bucketfuls of warm water.
Oh the body, and the amazing fever mind that is totally incapable of processing even the simplest tasks (like getting up and asking for a couple of extra blankets).

But slowly slowly getting better.
Enough to attend a couple of talks by the Portuguese Prem Baba that recommends emptying yourself like a bamboo so the divine air can flow through you.
And also enough to keep on discovering Rishi's beautiful ashrams full of life-like statues and historic details.
I especially liked the "Beatle's ashram" where they stayed for a few months back in the day. It is like a magic land full of domed huts that are being eaten by the forest (it's abandoned now).

I left Rishi after 3 intense weeks. Full of memories of visions in the mist, of the beautiful characters in the street, of new friends and spicy chai.

And now, after a couple of sleepless nights in buses and airports, I am back in Bangkok.

How I love this city which for me translates in peace and relaxation.

During the last 3 days I've done nothing but eat delicious and colorful fresh fruit, get massages and even do some shopping in the enormous Chatuchak market.

And thus ends this journey.

I am infinitely grateful for this amazing opportunity to travel around. For all the angels I found and found me on the way. For all the learning that will always be with me.

Also grateful to be heading back to beautiful NZ to see some dear people.

And to continue with the static journey, which is just as exciting!

Whomever has been reading these entries: Thanks for joining me!

The trip always continues, inside and out.

Around India with the mighty Clarita

Change of rhythm. From the daily continuity of the yoga course to the ever-changing jumping around India with my dear Clarita.

Meet in Dehli, finding a common ground between her process of landing in India after abusy year, and mine of disembarking from yogui land. A no man's land full of possibilities!

Touring around. The grand Bahai Lotus temple which welcomes everyone.

The amazing bus journey to Agra and its never ending toot toot tooting in the road

And the beautiful Taj.

I thought I was tired of man made buildings, but, oh the Taj.

Still not sure if I was more amazed by this huge perfectly harmonious building. Or by suddendly becoming ourselves a tourist attraction, with random indian tourists coming our way to take a "snap".

If photographs actually take a part of your soul, this last month has probably made us soul-less...

Experiencing one first train towards the Camel Fair in Pushkar. 5 people in  our 3-seater. Smiling folks hanging from the carriages and also from the roof!

It was festival times in India. Diwali just finished, but so many other little rituals every day and night.

You finally become used to being lulled to sleep by chanting, firecrackers and marching bands. Waking up to a mix of "Hare Krishna" and "Alahhh".

Too many colours, details, a temple in every corner. Camels everywhere in this land where Brahma, the creator god that no one really pays attention to (his job is done) initially came up the world.

Good mythological stories too. One involving a woman who had to go THROUGH a cow (from the back to the front) to be "purified".

Dusty Rajasthan was constantly yelling "hello" in our ears. Flashing colourful saris, spicy thalis, the perfectly round sun of India.

Forts, miniature paintings, a temple full of orgiastic rats that everyone adores.

A beautiful family that hosted us in its unique room. 

And in between sugary Masala Chais (achá chai), we jump to Punjab. The Golden Temple in Amritsar. Here the Sikhs with their carefully constructed turbants receive all pilgrims. Free accommodation, free food. A machine that makes 6000 chapatis per hour!

Learning more and more about the bloody history of India and its amazing mix of cultures and religions. Meeting lovely new friends

And off to the Himalayas. McLeod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama (though he is not here at the moment). Home of one of the biggest colonies of Tibetan refugees.

More learning. About their rich culture and religion, about their frustrating peaceful struggle where the strongest weapon seems to be self immolation by fire.

It is a despairing developent of events in this country that for many doesn't exist anymore, and for others is being expanded all over the world.

Our last night together we spent almost 3000 meters high, near the snowline in the mountains. Watching the stars with a telescope that only shows blackness.

I will miss travelling with my dear didi ClariClari. Such a brave awesome lady. But soon will see you in the Southern hemisphere!